Nara
Mood:
caffeinated
Wednesday, March 30th
NaraNara was the capital of Japan from 710 to 784. It was considered the cradle of Japanese culture, arts, and crafts. Buddhism first flourished here under the strong patronage of successive emperors and empresses. Many sights here are now registered on the UNESCO?s World Heritage List as an irreplaceable part of the cultural heritage of all humanity.
The city is not large but packs in quite a few temples and shrines within a comfortable walking distance. One of the most memorable scenes on postcards of this area is the cute little tama deer. They have full reign of the park and can be seen peaking out behind tombstones or just lounging on the grass. There are many stands where tourists can buy biscuits to feed the deer, and some of these critters have become quite the beggars. Many Japanese children are traumatized every year by their insistent behavior. We saw a few little kids in tears. Most of the deer are very well behaved though.
Nara Park was created in 1880 and contains many of the sites designated by UNESCO including Kofukuji Temple (which includes a colorful 5 story pagoda), Kasuga Grand Shrine, and Todaiji Temple (the largest wooden building in the world). Todaiji contains one of the great Daibutsu (statues of Buddha). Most of the principal statues in big temples are 4.8 meters tall, and are called Jorokubutsu. All Buddha statues taller than Jorokubutsu are called Daibutsu [ Great Buddha ].
More about NARATuesday, March 29th
Takarazuka ReviewThis was better than Las Vegas except we couldn't understand a word.
This dance company has been in existence over 90 years.You really need to see pictures of this phenomenon. It's an all women dance revue.
Check it out:
Takarazuka Home PageSunday, March 27th
Koyasan (Mount Koya)Koyasan is one large seminary of Shingon Buddhism that has kept its lanterns burning since its founding in 816. At 3,200 feet elevation it is in snow during the winter, and we still saw traces in the shade. Kobodiashi sailed to China at the age of 31 in 804. He studied Tantric Buddhism there and returned in 806 to Japan. He taught Shingon ? True word- sect Buddhism till he founded his retreat at Koyasan. Legend has it that he entered Okunoin cave at age 62 to begin ?eternal meditation. Some believe that he is still meditating there today. hm. Traditions are still carried on by 117 sub-temples including 53 shukubo, temples that provide lodging and dining to tourists and pilgrims. Sylvia was game to try staying at one of these. I was so excited because this was one of the things i really wanted to do before i left Japan. We stayed at Rengejoin because it has a couple of priests who speak a bit of English. Our temple featured ancient looking wall paintings and traditional shoji, paper doors. They had an enclosed Japanese garden that will look even better in a few weeks when things start sprouting and blooming. We slept on futon on tatami. Our dinner was a special Buddhist vegetarian cuisine called shojinryori and was surprisingly delicious. It is skillfully cooked without any use of meat, fish, onions, or garlic. Some of the delicacies are tempura, aghe, Koya tofu, Goma (sesame)-tofu, Miso soup, sweet and sour seaweeds in vinegar, and wild potatoes. We did a 40-minute meditation before dinner. At 6:30am, for those who were interested, there was chanting and a lecture in Japanese and English. This was very popular with standing room only on the morning we attended. The lecture was really far-out. The priest presented these ?scientific photos? of ice crystals formed from drops of water that had been either positively or negatively meditated on in some way. Of course the ?good karma? water had gorgeous crystals and the ?bad vibe? water had really ugly unnatural crystals. His conclusion was that since the human body is mostly water that we should send out ?positive vibes? to all. Well, duh.
Considering this is the off-season we were surprised to see at least 30 or 40 people staying at just this one temple on a Sunday evening. We ate dinner and breakfast with an interesting couple from Singapore. She was Chinese and he was Italian. There was a group from Israel and a Japanese group as well. This experience isn?t cheap, but i think it was worth every penny. Lodging and two meals was about $100, actually very reasonable in Japan.
This was the second visit for me to Koyasan but i still didn?t get to explore it all. The first time because we ran out of time after hiking with the Kansai Ramblers all day to get there. This time the weather was cold and rainy and just wasn?t conducive to strolling under cedars viewing centuries old tombs. We did get some cool pictures but retreated quickly to a warm restaurant for some okonomiyaki.
Welcome to KOYASAN
Posted by maryinjapan
at 12:39 PM
Updated: Wednesday, 13 April 2005 8:24 PM