Now Playing: Tired but Happy
Wednesday, 05 November 2003
Well, yesterday was the 4th day of a 4 day weekend for me. I was very lucky to be able to join a tour of Kyoto with my friend, Leslie, from Spokane on Tuesday, Nov. 4, 2003. She arrived in Japan on Monday and didn't get into her hotel till after 10pm last evening. What stamina, the group was up and at temple for services the next morning. (I slept in, oh wise one!) I met Leslie and the group of about 40 people from all over the U.S. for a tour of Kyoto.
First we headed to Sanjusangendo. This is a famous temple of "33 spaces." San means 3. Ju means ten. Sanjusan means 33, duh! There are 32 pillars and 33 spaces between them. This is a significant number but I don't recall the meaning. Within these spaces are 1,000 statues of a Buddhist God, Kannon. All the statues are carved of cedar and are coated in gold and made in the 12th and 13th centuries. They are lined up shoulder to shoulder, almost life size. Each one a little different but mostly the same design. There are risers and there's about 7 rows stretching the length of the hall. "Guardian" gods stand guard between each pillar. Some of these gods look Chinese in design but most are Hindu gods.
Next we were back on the bus for a spectacular drive out of the city and up Mt. Hiei (Mother Mountain of Japanese Buddhism). The elevation, I think is only about 2,000+ ft above sea level but it is a steep climb in a big bus. The fall colors were just spectacular. Views of Lake Biwa and Kyoto are impressive and we stopped a few times on the way up for some "Kodak moments." It is hard to believe that in ancient times monks would hike their way up these tortuous winding paths to study Buddhism at the Enryaku-ji temple.
Saicho Daishi was born in 767, entered temple at age 12, and was ordained a priest in 785. Witnessing the corruption of traditional Buddhism in Nara, he withdrew onto Mt. Hiei and "entered religious austerities" in order to see authenitic Buddhism. He built the first temple on Mount Hiei in 788. In 804 he visited China and studied not only Tendai Buddhism but also Vajrayana and Zen Buddhism. I was particularly impressed with Ninai-do (Benkei's Shoulders Hall). It is made up of two identical Buddhist practice halls, the Lotus and Constant Practice Halls, connected by a covered passageway. It symbolizes a basic teaching of Mt. Hiei that the essences of Lotus Sutra and Pure Land teachings are united. Meditation and reciting the Lotus Sutra in one hall and reciting the Amida Sutra in the other. In the 14th century this temple turned out some incredible people who would go on to establish a number of sects which still exist and are going strong today, including Jodo Shinshu. People like Shinran, Honen, Dogen, and Nichiren all studied here around the 1300's.
We knelt in awe at the view of the eternal flame that hasn't been extinguished in 1,200 years. Unbelievable. We had a very traditional vegetarian lunch at the temple dining hall that was not only delicious but beautiful with an orange edible flower and fuzzy green herb leaf (spicy and edible).
After lunch we roamed the grounds briefly trying to take as many picutres as possible. Then we were off down the mountain and back into Kyoto where we were dropped off for just an hour of shopping time in an outdoor but covered market. Everything from fans to ceramics and silk and washi(handmade paper). I have been to this market numerous times but Leslie was overwhelmed with all the variety of souvenirs and things to buy. I was so sorry that she didn't have more time to browse.
After a quick buying spree we were back on the bus and off to Kiyomizu Temple (mizu means water in Nihongo). We reached this site at around 4pm. We had a short walk through an incredible outdoor market with lots of local pottery, fans and more. We had to keep hurrying to get to the temple before it closed. Legend says that there are 3 springs here and one spring grants beauty to anyone who drinks, one grants wealth and the other health; so, of course, we all had to drink at every Shinto water fountain that we came to, just in case! The sun was setting as we approached the gateway to the temple. The gateway was brilliant red and orange in normal light, but with the sunset it was like being on fire with color. We couldn't get enough pictures. On top of the sunset, a crescent moon was off to the right of the arch. How spectacular! I just hope that my digital camera was able to capture it all. Leslie's battery was going dead and I was having a real challenge getting the lighting right but we gave it a valiant try.
Tired but happy, we landed back at the hotel at 6pm. A very long day indeeed. We had a short walk to the International Center so that I could check out of my room - rather late. Then we had a nice American style dinner and then Leslie was off to her hotel for a much deserved early to bed night. And I was off to catch the train for an hour's trip back to Nishinomiya (it sure feels like home).
Wonderful day.
Posted by maryinjapan
at 7:05 PM
Updated: Wednesday, 12 November 2003 6:11 PM
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