Mood:
![](https://ly.lygo.net/af/d/blog/common/econ/hot.gif)
Thursday, July 15th
Paul and Karen are friends from the Spokane Buddhist Temple. They flew into Tokyo and then took the shinkansen to Kyoto. They will be here for just a few short days and then off to Beijing and India. I met them at their hotel in Kyoto on Wed. evening and spent the night with them. Then we attended services at the Hongwanji at 6am this morning. The Nishi Hongwanji is a World Heritage Site. It was a pleasure accompanying Karen and Paul on a great English guided tour of this compound.Tabitha, who works at the Hongwanji and is a college student here in Kyoto, gave us the tour. She used to live in WA and her Dad was the Buddhist minister in White River sometime ago. Now he is a minister in Hawaii. The site includes many museum quality buildings housing ancient wall and ceiling paintings, a traditional Japanese dry landscaped garden, a floating pavilion, 2 outdoor Noh stages, not to mention the place of worship - the Amidha Buddha Hall. The big Founder's Hall is under construction and won't be completed until 2008.
After the tour with Tabitha's help, we went shopping for some ojuzu and a kesa for Paul. The shop, next to the Hongwanji's International Center, served us tea and cookies after Paul had finished shopping. While his purchases were being wrapped we were invited to go upstairs and visit the costume museum. This museum included a series of miniature scenes from the Tale of Genji, a very famous traditional Japanese saga. There were meticulously dressed dolls in dioramas of specific scenes from this drama. Wow, gorgeous.
After shopping and a really nice vegetarian lunch back at the train station we decided to hop on the subway and experience part of yoiyoiyama (the eve of the eve of Gion Matsuri). This is one of the 3 biggest Festivals in all of Japan and one of the longest in duration. It runs for practically the whole month of July.
It was probably 90 degrees and a bit humid. The floats are scattered in the streets for blocks and blocks. There are 32 floats all together and they are ancient. Connecting the floats are uncountable street vendors selling all sorts of taste sensations from takoyaki (octopus balls) and okonomiyaki (cabbage and egg omelet with ????) to ichigo and ringo ame (strawberry and apples on a stick dipped in syrup that dries hard like our candy apples). Fans and parasols are everywhere to fight off the heat and glare of the sun. It's almost too bright to take good photos during the heat of the day but the crowds are small so far.
Gion Matsuri actually started under very oppressive circumstances in 869 when a plague raged through Kyoto. A priest of the Yasaka (or Gion) shrine led a procession of people through Kyoto in an attempt to appease the Shinto gods. The plague soon ended but this event became a popular festival with large floats (Hoko & Yama - rolled and carried) now being paraded through Kyoto.
The floats, some of which weigh over 10 tons, are very elaborate and many are decorated with Dutch and Turkish tapestries from the 15th century.
Each of the large Hoko floats carries musicians and truly looks a couple of centuries out of place as it is pulled through the streets. The Hoko floats are so big that they must be pulled by a large team of attendants.
I may try to attend next year on the day of the parade but after experiencing the crowds two days before this event I can see why there are many warnings to stay away. It is so hot and with over 200,000 attending it could be miserable!
Paul and Karen were drooping. I can't imagine why. They had done a tour in Tokyo and on Wed. had done a tour of Kyoto in the morning and then taken a 1.5 hour bus ride one-way to Nara and toured there in the afternoon. Good grief. So i put them on the subway and headed them back to their hotel for a much needed nap. I stayed for an extra hour or so and took some more pictures and pigged out on fresh iced pineapple on a stick. Barbequed chicken on a stick and bought some french fried sweet potatoes for Paul and Karen. During this time by myself i discovered some of the homes that are open to the public. Families are displaying their treasures for everyone to see. I was able to see some centuries-old painted folding screens, tapestries and hand woven silk fabrics, and also glimpse a little of the insides of a traditional old-style Japanese home with enclosed gardens and all! Lucky me.
Through the wonders of this cursed cell phone i was able to contact Connie and David headed to Kyoto from Osaka. I met them in the train station and headed over to pick up my overnight bag and introduce them to Paul and Karen. Since they were leaving for Beijing early the next morning they declined our invitation to visit the Matsuri this evening. David, Connie and i stashed our non-essentials in a locker at the train station and caught a subway for the festivities again. We arrived on the streets of Shijodori (5th Street) around 5:30pm Crowds were spilling into the streets. By 6pm streets were roped off and quickly filled with people in summer yukata and the intensity of the mood heightened. Hawkers selling chimaki (bamboo wrapped shrine amulets) got to me and now i have one hanging over my door which will keep me healthy till next Matsuri. The sounds of the repetitious matsuri music (percussion and high-pitched flutes and/or whistles are everywhere - in the stores, malls and stations. To tell you the truth it can really grate on your nerves, but here in the crowd with all the colors and excitement it fills the air with festive energy.
We are carried through the streets snacking and drinking as much water as possible to stay hydrated. I wait till we are leaving to sample a heavenly amber ale made by a local brewery. It seems so strange to be standing on the street at 8pm with a beer in my hand asking a policeman for directions to the subway! hah. So back we go to head home - foot sore and tired but with a buzz of happiness at having been able to experience such an evening.
And they lived happily ever after. amen
Posted by maryinjapan
at 8:13 PM
Updated: Saturday, 17 July 2004 2:23 PM