Fuji-san
Mood:
celebratory
LOST before i get to Fuji-sanOk, so it was a simple mistake. Leaving at 6am on Saturday i rode my bike to the JR station. Then i hopped on a train bound for Osaka. It was an easy walk to the tour bus area from the train station. I confidently walked up to a table and a lady found my name on a list...so far...so good. Oh, by the way, it's pouring rain and there is roaring thunder and lightning. That makes for some confidence-building on the day i am about to climb Mt. Fuji. She directs me to stand under an awning - out of the rain - with a number of Japanese tourists in "Group A". This woman takes my tickets and leaves which makes me a bit uneasy but what the heck. At 7:20am when we are supposed to board the bus a driver starts rattling off in very fast Japanese. I hear the word Fuji and half the people under the "A" awning head for the bus. I ask the others still standing there if that's where i should go, and they all enthusiastically send me off. As i board the bus i cautiously ask "Fuji-san?" "Hai" - which means "yes" and so i board the bus. I am a little nervous and confused since the other two befuddled Americans on this bus still have their tickets and i don't see the lady who took mine anywhere. What the heck. As we start down the road and head for the highway, a guide walks down the aisle asking for tickets. I tell him that i've already given mine to a lady (of course he probably can't understand a word i'm saying.) After studying my paper receipt, that i so luckily saved, the bus stops on the side of the road and the driver is on the phone. Uh, oh. So after quite a few tense minutes, the guide returns my paperwork to me and politely tells me that i've boarded the wrong bus and that the other bus is on it's way to Fuji. My heart just stops! He gets on the phone again... So will they just throw me off the bus and there goes $150 for the tour? Will they just let me stay with this group? It sure would be nice to be with two other English speakers... More tense moments as he talks on the phone again. Everyone on the bus is probably thinking - stupid American! Actually, i don't even think they noticed. ha ha. Then the guide comes back to me again. I can't help thinking that if the tables were turned and i was in America and a non-English speaker if i would have been treated so politely. Maybe. He has made an arrangement to meet the other bus at a place down the road and we'll do a switch-a-roo there. whew.
In Kyoto the apologetic woman who took my tickets in the first place meets me and guides me to the correct bus. Because others from Kyoto are boarding as well no one has to know that i made a mistake. To my amazement a young man boards the bus and takes his assigned seat across the aisle from me. Turns out he's a high school student from Poland doing a home-stay for a year here in Kyoto. He speaks Polish and English and now is fluent in Japanese. Amazing and lucky for me because he translates most of the important information to me as we are travelling. I don't know what i would have done without him.
Fuji-sanDue to very strong winds we didn't make it to the summit. We made it
PAST Station 8 (we began the climb at Station 5 and the last station is 9) Fuji-san is 12,388 feet and we ended at the Fuji Hotel at 10,500. I am a bit disappointed because i really wanted to see if the altitude would affect me. Instead, because of the winds that blew all the clouds away we got some incredible views. "Ya can't always get what ya want."
I had been told that Fuji was littered and ugly. Well, maybe it was in the past, but i thought it was beautiful. The rain poured and poured and the thunder continued most all Saturday from the time we left Osaka till almost 5pm when we arrived at Station 5. I must have an angel on my shoulder because when we got off the bus, the rain became a shower and then turned to a cool comfortable mist.
The bus was comfy and we slept most of the way. Frequent stops for bathroom breaks were much appreciated. We had a light traditional Japanese dinner at 5:30pm, changed clothes and packed our packs, filled our water bottles, and stashed stuff in the bus to be left behind before we headed out around 6:30pm on our hiking adventure. Everyone else is in small groups of family/friends. I am the only solo climber which is a bit awkward and the language barrier makes it even harder, but i try to remain positive and as friendly as i can be in my broken Japanese. Antony, the Polish student, is very good about filling me in on important details along the way, but he is also very busy flirting with all the pretty girls who are crazy about him. He has such a bubbly personality. What a joy he is. It's a comfortable temperature so i start out in shorts and short sleeve shirt. High tech fabrics are so wonderful. Even in the mist my clothes stay fairly dry (evaporation thru body heat - magic) At this altitude there is lush vegetation. Azaleas are still blooming under a canopy of hemlock and other trees that i can't identify. Bird sounds are so welcome here. I don't know bird names but their songs remind me of melodies that you would hear from a music box. I miss bird song. Fuji-san is a dormant cinder-cone volcano. The paths are mostly all made of crushed lava rock. This surface is not so hard on your feet as solid rock and doesn't get muddy in the rain but on the downside it is like walking in sand. Going down hill the following day was especially difficult. The forest quickly gives way to lava rock formations with a scattering of granite boulders. Yes, it looks rather stark but it's a volcano! Because the clouds have drifted off we can see the path zigzagging up and up. There is a red tori (Japanese gate) at the top of the green belt which indicates Station 7. It looks so far away but that's where we will spend the night.
In three hours of easy hiking with plenty of breaks along the way to take pictures and check out the views and acclimate we make it to our night's desination. We have been given a small obento earlier on and told to put it in our packs. I thought that we would eat this when we arrived but i was informed that we eat it when we get up at midnight. I am disappointed because i am starved. A peak in the box reveals white rice wrapped in seaweed and some pickles - oh, my gosh, that's all we get to climb on! Luckily i have packed a banana and carefully stash it away for a bit of energy as a midnight snack.
Now the fun part. We are lined up and guided to our bedroom. How do i explain this? The room consists of two giant bunkbeds (one on each side of the room) that run the full length of the room. So picture a large shelf that is more than body length wide running down the sides of the room with a narrow walkway between the two shelves. We either sleep on the floor under the shelf or on the shelf.
One by one we take our packs which are stashed at the foot of the bed or alternately hung on a nail on the wall and we lay down head to the wall, next, feet to the wall, next, head to the wall, next, feet to the wall.... Ok, picture a can of sardines. Got it?
Then we are covered with a heavy futon that covers about three of us at once. Nighty, night, it's 10:30pm, sweet dreams, see ya at midnight!
It doesn't seem like i slept much. Lots of excited conversations going on and others climbing in bed over the next hour or so. I'm guessing that they can easily fit over 100 people in this room if they had to . The wind is howling outside. We are gently aroused with a bell and dim lights turned on. After much discussion in Japanese a vote is taken. Of course, i haven't understood a word that was said. Antony is nowhere near me so the others around me try in their limited English to explain that the wind was so strong at midnight that they decided to let us sleep till 1:30am. Now we have to decide to go on as far as we can get in windy and cold (41 degrees) conditions or go back to sleep and head back down in the morning. About half of us decide to go for it. Guess what my decision was.
I have a slight headache but i'm pretty sure it's from lack of food and a bit of dehydration. I gobble the banana in hopes that it will give me enough energy for the climb. We are hiking by 2am and arrive around Station 8 as the sun comes up (about 5am). Oh, my gosh, what a view. Everyone is in such a great mood. We do the "Bonzai" cheer a number of times and sing the Hanshin Tigers baseball team theme song enthusiastically and with feeling.
The wind and cold are not bad at all. We have all had to strip off layers of clothing while we hike. It's a scramble in the dark over rocks and stone steps. I am very glad that i had Nola bring me a headlamp from REI. It would have been dangerous climbing without it. We climb on a bit higher after sunrise and reach the Fuji Hotel (not much more than the place we stayed). This is where we eat our breakfast of white rice and seaweed. Luckily the Fuji Hotel has some hot udon which I down in one gulp. I wish i would have brought some food.
The hike back down is the toughest. It's steep switchbacks that are all crushed lava rock. If it was a little finer texture you could almost get your boots set right and slide down it - like surfing. But unfortunately i couldn't surf it so i resorted to a technique of digging in my heels and leaning on my staff to keep my balance when my feet slipped out from under me. What a thigh burner! The walking stick, made of a very light wood, is purchased at the beginning of the climb. Tradition is that you pay 200 yen (about $2) at each check point to get a unique stamp burned into your staff. It's quite cool to have different designs and altitude marks growing on your hiking stick as you climb. So for $8 and 12 stamps later I have a $32 piece of wood now. Everything is expensive but rightfully so. I'm not sure how they pack things up to this place but it looks like it might be by horseback. It's a suggested 100 yen each time you use the bathroom but there are generators running to dry out the wastes and i'm sure that isn't cheap. I really enjoyed the climb. No real aches and pains. My headache didn't go away until we were back on the bus and made a stop where i could get some food and water in me so i don't think that it was altitude related. phew.
The bus ride back was as pleasant as they could make it, but it was difficult to be on the bus much, much longer than the climb. We first drove to a traditional Japanese bath house. There was time to shower, soak in the spa and get an ice cream. Then back on the bus. Next we drove to a restaurant where we had another traditional Japanese meal. Boy, was i sick of white rice. I usually do pretty well with Japanese food but after this much excercise white rice just doesn't do it for me. We made another stop to buy omiyagi (presents). It is traditional when on a trip to buy presents - usually food - for your family, kids, friends and coworkers. It can get rather expensive. I try always to bring something back for the teaching and office staff at my school.
To summarize:
Cost: 16,800 yen
Saturday
Bus travel to Fuji: 10 hours
Hike for 3 hours
Sleep for 3 hours
Sunday beginning at 2am..
Hike for about 3 hours to the Station 8
Hike back down to Station 5 - about 5 hours
Bus back to Osaka: 10 hours including some stops.
Ah, and back to work on Monday! whew.
And a great time was had by all.
PHOTOS SOON TO COME
Posted by maryinjapan
at 4:01 PM
Updated: Tuesday, 20 July 2004 12:09 PM